Review : Gastro parK

5-9 Roslyn Street

Kings Cross 

Ph: 8068 1017

Lunch

Fri to Sat Noon - 2:30pm


Dinner
Tue to Sat 6pm - 10pm

For the first time in a long time, I feel as though I am cheating. Cheating on my mistress....The Bentley (Ok I did cheat once before with Vue de Monde, but that was just a one night stand & distance has unfortunately kept us apart). I feel cheap, I feel dirty.... but I can't help myself. I've found a new love & I can't wait to go back & do it all over again.
The new found object of my affection is Gastro parK.

Appropriately enough our meeting takes place at the Cross. We decide to meet for lunch when we are less likely to get caught.

The room we share is light, airy, sleek & modern...lots of exposed concrete (Gastro parK knows I love raw materials).

We start off innocently enough with some wonderful bread & lush, creamy butter.

Things start to get a little more serious with the Textures of Duck with local wild mushroom tagliatelle. Truly beautiful to behold; this consists of duck jelly, smoked duck, duck ham, tenderloin & a perfectly cooked tagliatelle. The duck jelly is clean & clear, balancing the exquistely 'fatty' duck ham. Be still my beating heart!
Perhaps a minor complaint would be that the duck skin could be somewhat crisper, adding a further textural element.... but I quibble really, I'm just looking for reasons not to succumb.

Next, Liquid Butternut Gnocchi, mushroom consomme, sage has me in thrall. Delicate spheres of pumpkin soup sit beneath an aromatic, earthy mushroom consomme. This wonderful concoction is topped with a crispy, cheesy crown. When spooned together with the rich consomme, the pumpkin 'gnocchi' burst in the mouth, releasing all their liquid glory. Words fail me, I am captivated.

What is this madness? I don't eat seafood, yet one mouthful of Confit Blue Eye, Cavalo Nero, octopus, chorizo, preserved lemons, artichoke stems and butter sand has me begging for more.
Flaky, juicy blue eye is complemented by citrusy, salty preserved lemon and spicy chorizo. The almost bitter cavalo nero, tender octopus & artichoke stems further enhance the flavour of the blue eye. I am well & truly hooked.

Roast tri tip beef, saute kale, onion soubise and caramelised sweetbreads is beyond good. The tender beef, cooked perfectly pink, is just made for dipping into the slightly sweet, light onion soubise. The slight crunch of the pretty, purple kale is the perfect foil for the melt in the mouth veal sweetbreads. Such exquisite torture.

A side of Potato Churros delivers on every level, seasoned to perfection they are crisp outside, yet so velvety & fluffy within. The saffron aioli is perfectly paired. I can but sigh.

Our encounter is drawing to its inevitable, sweet conclusion.

Broken fig tart, vanilla, violet, raspberry, persimmon. It appears deceptively simple at first glance, yet it is outrageously delicious. Sweet, tart, crispy and creamy - all in one delicious mouthful.

I can do nothing but give in to Nitro pavlova, guava, pineapple, coconut. The lustrous outer shell dissolves in the mouth releasing the divine guava sorbet. The ribbons of pineapple & coconut bubbles add to this blissful, tropical encounter.

It really should end here, but this jezebel hasn't finished toying with me just yet. I am further tempted by Chocolate, honeycomb, vanilla sphere, cookies & cream. Do I even dare go there? I am weak, I surrender.
I can't even begin to describe this blissful combination of chocolate, mandarin, cookie, tiny violet macarons & honeycomb. You simply have to visit & try it for yourself....tread carefully though, I am the jealous type.

The final string in Gastro parK's bow is service...friendly, warm, efficient & knowledgeable. Seduction complete.

So while The Bentley is firmly entrenched in my heart & we certainly won't be parting any time soon, I really can't wait to hook up (again) with my sneaky, little bit on the side....Gastro parK.

Squeak